Sewing - Insulated Jacket/Pullover

TBC: make draft flap pattern 3" wide versus 4" used on supplex jacket, or perhaps separate and wider draft flap for jacket versus pullover?

TBC: make sleeve pattern 1/2" longer

pullover and jacket
pullover with 1.0 oz/sqyd ripstop outer shell, jacket with 3.3 oz/sqyd supplex outer shell (jacket used earlier version of pattern: longer torso, higher collar, no top stitching 5" below shoulder line)



Similar to shirt pattern, with following modifications: slightly shorter top to bottom; single back rather than cut-on-fold back (easier to cut insulation with single piece); separate front pieces versus cut-on-fold front (allow for front opening); slight curve where shoulder line meets neck (sharp angle doesn't work with insulated garment); sleeve different shape (no need to allow for rolling up sleeve) and size (accommodate insulation); collar completely different (different method of construction); added draft flap. Front and back widths same as for shirt. Since 2 seam allowances on back and each front, plus overlap when sewing up pullover or closing jacket, net effect is circumference reduced by (2 + 2 + 2 + 1) * 3/8" = 21/8" = 2 5/8", or over 3" in practice for shell, plus more to account for bulk of insulation.

jacket pattern