Sewing - Insulated Jacket/Pullover
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TBC: make draft flap pattern 3" wide versus 4" used on supplex jacket, or perhaps separate and wider draft flap for jacket versus pullover?
TBC: make sleeve pattern 1/2" longer
pullover with 1.0 oz/sqyd ripstop outer shell, jacket with 3.3 oz/sqyd supplex outer shell (jacket used earlier version of pattern: longer torso, higher collar, no top stitching 5" below shoulder line)
- Loose in underarms, to avoid contamination from perspiration there.
- Trim fit in torso.
- Double layer insulation in torso (back, front, collar), single layer in sleeves.
- Uses securely stabilized continuous fiber insulation, thus durable when worn under backpack for long periods.
- Should be worn under spare supplex shirt for protection when bushwhacking and especially when likely to encounter thorns, since outer fabric very lightweight.
- Can be sewn as either jacket or pullover.
- Uses buttons rather than zipper closure, since zippers can fail in the field (jam due to fabric caught in zipper; zipper wears out due to abrasion from dirt and then won't close properly; etc). Sometimes zipper failure can be field repaired, sometimes not. Separating zippers difficult to close if one hand/arm injured.
- Collar can be turned under to give more neck ventilation in mild conditions.
- Minor cutting/sewing errors not a problem, since mismatches easily accommodated in bulky seams.
- Possible to save about 90g (assuming 2.5 oz/sqyd Climashield insulation) by using single rather than double layer insulation in torso.
- Possible to make outer shell 3.3 oz/sqyd supplex from SeattleFabrics.com, adding about 140g weight for pullover, and thus eliminate need to use supplex overshirt for protection from brush and thorns.
- Weighs about 330g, assuming shell fabric 1.0 oz/sqyd HyperD diamond ripstop nylon from RipstopByTheRoll.com, insulation 2.5 oz/sqyd Climashield continuous fiber polyester from RipstopByTheRoll.com.
Similar to shirt pattern, with following modifications: slightly shorter top to bottom; single back rather than cut-on-fold back (easier to cut insulation with single piece); separate front pieces versus cut-on-fold front (allow for front opening); slight curve where shoulder line meets neck (sharp angle doesn't work with insulated garment); sleeve different shape (no need to allow for rolling up sleeve) and size (accommodate insulation); collar completely different (different method of construction); added draft flap. Front and back widths same as for shirt. Since 2 seam allowances on back and each front, plus overlap when sewing up pullover or closing jacket, net effect is circumference reduced by (2 + 2 + 2 + 1) * 3/8" = 21/8" = 2 5/8", or over 3" in practice for shell, plus more to account for bulk of insulation.
- 2 yards outer shell fabric, at least 60" wide.
- 2 yards inner shell fabric, at least 60" wide.
- 3 yards insulation, at least 60" wide. (3 yards may not leave enough for full length draft flap with fibers aligned side-to-side, so use two short pieces instead. Insulation well secured inside draft flap, provided fibers aligned side-to-side, so doesn't need to be single piece.)
- 3/4" buttons (3 for pullover, 8 for jacket)
- 80/12 universal needles (90/14 if heavier shell fabric)
- 100% polyester thread.
- Walking foot accessory for sewing machine.
- Single line of stitching sufficient everywhere, assuming strong thread. No more than single line when top-stitching to stabilize insulation.
- Walking foot where specified, otherwise ordinary presser foot.
- Draft flap determines length of front opening. For jacket, use full pattern of 28" long (27" finished length). For pullover, draft flap pattern should be 3" longer than desired opening, since 1" lost during sewing process, and draft flap should extend 2" below bottom of neck opening. If neck opening 11", draft flap pattern should thus be 14" long.
- Cut outer shell: 1 back, 2 front, 2 sleeve, 1 collar, 1 draft flap.
- Cut inner shell: 1 back, 2 front, 2 sleeve, 1 collar, 1 draft flap.
- Cut insulation such that fibers run side-to-side for draft flap and top to bottom for everything else (fibers of continuous fiber insulation run "cross grain" direction, if speaking of woven fabric): 2 back, 4 front, 2 sleeve, 2 collar, 1 draft flap.
- Sew together outer and inner shell, right sides facing, 3/8" seam allowance, leave bottom open.
- Walking foot. Pin insulation to finished shell, facing inner shell: double layer for back, front and collar; single layer for sleeves and draft flap. If outer and inner shell fabric identical, right and left front will be identical until insulation attached, so be careful how this is done. Attach insulation using zigzag in seam allowance along closed edge. For everything except draft flap (whose opening too small for this), zigzag insulation to inner shell along bottom edge. Turn inside out. Top stitch 3/8" from all closed edges.
- Walking foot. Pin bottom together, top stitch 3/8" from edge, zigzag edge, fold at line of top stitching and stitch flat to form hem. (Once again, be careful to do right and left fronts differently, if outer and inner shell same fabric.) Ragged looking hem, but doesn't matter, since hidden inside garment. Can't fold twice, like with normal hem, due to thickness of insulation.
- Walking foot. Horizontally top stitch back, fronts and sleeves to stabilize insulation. Use only single line of stitching, otherwise shell will bunch up. If thread breaks, seam rip and start over. Verify full bobbin before starting, to avoid having to restart because of running out of thread. Be careful to pull fabric to both sides while feeding through machine, since otherwise bottom shell will bunch up. For back and front, 3 lines: 8.5" from bottom straight, 16.5" from bottom straight, 5" from top following curve. For sleeves, 1 line: 12" from top following curve.
- Double fold 1" strip of outer shell fabric and top-stitch to form strip 1/4" wide. Cut 3" strip and bartack to back, top center of seam allowance, to make hanging loop. Be careful not to stitch through this loop when attaching collar later.
- Attach draft flap to left front seam allowance.
- (Pullover) Sew together fronts from bottom to 2" above bottom of draft flap, with right front seam allowance overlapping left front seam allowance.
- Attach fronts to back at shoulders, then attach collar and sleeves. Sew up sides of torso and sleeves, with 2" opening at armpits for ventilation and to avoid thick seam junction under arms.
- Double fold 1" strip of supplex fabric and top-stitch to form strip 1/4" wide. Cut 3" strips and attach to right side of front opening as button loops. Sew buttons to left side of front opening, about 1" from edge. Lightweight fabrics don't give enough stiffness for button loops, so always use supplex.