All content copyright © 2010-2019 Frank Revelo, United States copyright office registration number TX-7931345
Materials: 1.9 oz/sqyd silnylon (2.3 oz/sqyd including silnylon coating), available from Seattle Fabrics, 1000d cordura, mini-cordlock, 2mm dacron cord, 80/12 needle.
Nail stake sack: Cut silnylon 6 x 19". Cut cordura 6 x 3". Finished size 5 x 8.5". 15 grams.
Sand stake sack: Cut silnylon 6 x 27". Finished size 5 x 12.5". 10 grams.
For nail stake sack only, sew cordura reinforcement patch to center of silnylon strip.
Fold, stitch one side with 1/4" seam, other side with 5/8" seam. Zigzag seam allowances. Buttonhole along wider seam near top. 1/2" tunnel at top. Install drawcord and cordlock.
Left image above shows how sack is closed using overhand knot. Use 1.4 oz/sqyd silnylon fabric, 80/12 needle, regular thread. Cut fabric 30" wide by 28" high. Fold along width, stitch bottom and side with 1/2" seams, zigzag seam allowances. Add 1/4" hem at top. Finished size 14.5" wide by 27" high. 25 grams.
Use 1.4 oz/sqyd silnylon fabric, 80/12 needle, regular thread. Cut fabric, fold along width and stitch bottom and side with 1/2" seam, zigzag seam allowances. Create buttonhole near top along seam. 1/2" tunnel at top. Install drawcord and cordlock. Cutting and finished sizes and weights:
For stuff sacks for bicycle tools and spares, use 2.0 oz/sqyd heavyweight silnylon and heavier cordlock. Cut 20.5" wide by 17" high, finished size 9.5" wide by 16" high, 23 grams.
Cut 2mil plastic drop cloth 48" wide by 33" high. Fold along width and tape with clear packing tape, to form sack 24" wide by 33" high. 50 grams.
Mirror case fits the Coghlan's 2.75"x4.25" acrylic mirror sold at REI, Campmor and elsewhere. Cut 1000d cordura 4" wide by 11" high. 1/8" hem on both ends. Attach 3" long loop side of 1/2" velcro to right side of fabric at one end. Fold along height, leaving 1" flap, stitch with 3/8" seams. Trim seam allowances to 1/4" and zigzag. Turn inside out and sew hook side of 1/2" velcro to flap. 10 grams.
Tools case holds scissors, tweezers, nail fail, tooth scraper, and other tools with sharp points. While staying in cities, tool case used to protect neckpurse from abrasion from spoon, folding knife and hotel key. Cut 1000d cordura 5" wide by 16" high and 5" wide by 2" high. 1/4" hem on both ends. Zigzag hem on one end and then attach 4" long loop side of 1/2" velcro to right side of fabric at this end. Sew shorter piece to longer piece about 6" from the end with the velcro loop (reinforcement patch, to prevent points of tools from poking through fabric), zigzag sides. Fold along height, leaving 1" flap, stitch with 1/4" seams, zigzag sides. Fray check internal stitching, then turn inside out. Sew 4" long hook side of 1/2" velcro to flap. Fray check external stitching. 20 grams.
Can opener case fits Coghlan's brand P-51 (some people mistakenly call it P-38) military-style can opener, ordered from REI or Campmor. Can opener weighs about 7 grams and case weighs about 3 grams, so combination weighs about 10 grams. Use heavy coated oxford cloth (same fabric used for bottom of backpack). Cut 5.5" by 1.75", 1/8" hems on all sides, add 1/2" strips of hook-and-loop at either end, fold and stitch.
Right image above show inside of hat cover, including keeper cord that secures hatcover to hatband. Made of polyester mesh (from owfinc). Cut 23" wide x 8" high. Fold along width, sew up sides and top with 1/2" seam, zigzag edges. Square-off bottom into rectangle 3" wide x 8" long with 1/2" seam allowances, trim excess, zigzag edges. Hem bottom. Attach loop of 1/2" wide grosgrain nylon to back/bottom seam. Attach 24" of cord to this loop, used to secure cover to hat so it isn't pulled off accidentally when snagging on overhead branches. 15 grams.
Cut two pieces of no-see-um netting 27.5" long by 21" wide, sew together on three sides with 5/8" seam, square off bottom using 5/8" seam to form open-ended sack 22" long by 10" square. Make extra-small stuff sack (cut silnylon 11" wide by 6" high, see sewing instructions for stuff sacks above). Sew inside bottom of stuff sack to inside top seam of headnet, so stuff sack will not get lost. 25 grams, including stuff sack.
Cut 3-ply supplex nylon 25.5" wide by 13" high, fold along width, stitch top and side with 1/2" seam allowance, trim and zigzag seam allowances. 1/2" hem at open side. Square off bottom (6" square) with 3/8" seam allowance, zigzag seam allowance. 20 grams.
During 2012 Nevada backcountry bicycle tour (no tree cover and constant sun), I experienced some burning on backs of hands, which is why I designed these sleeve extensions. Because they do not interfere with air circulation too much, they are much cooler than gloves, but give same protection from sunburn. During 2014 tour, I went shirtless while bicycle touring Nevada and experienced no pain. So evidently, all I need is good base tan and then I am immune to sunburn, at least at Nevada latitudes in September/October. So I no longer carry these sleeve extensions. They might be useful for people who don't tan as well as me. About 25g grams if made with 3-ply supplex nylon.
Use same fabric, buttons, thread as shirt. Cut scrap of fabric 1" wide, doubly-fold and topstitch, so that finished size is about 1/4" wide. Cut 4 strips 2.25" long (button loops) and 2 strips 2.75" long and 2 strips 3.25" long (finger loops). Cut 2 pieces of fabric as shown in above pattern. 1/4" hems on all sides. Sew buttons and button-loops to match those on shirt. Note that sleeve extensions for right and left sleeve will normally be mirror images of one another, depending on how buttons where sewed onto shirt. Sew finger loop strips at diagonal on front part of sleeve extension. Longer finger loop is for index finger, shorter loop is for little finger. Apply fraycheck to bartacks.